Friday, April 11, 2014

Gheralta Area - Abuna Yemata Guh Church (Getting There)

April 11 - The journey to this ancient rock hewn church was perhaps the most strenuous, exciting, spiritual, enjoyable and TERRIFYING thing I've ever done. 

As we followed the rocky trail through terraced farmland, our guide, Arya, told us we're heading "to that large point of rocks".  "The church is halfway up on cliff", he says. What???

The trail quickly grew more steep and difficult, and more beautiful with every step. As we came upon a large tree we noticed a group of men lounging in the shade. Turns out these men were to be our escorts. Our guide and 6 escorts were very kind and let us go at OUR pace, not theirs. Big difference.

It was at this pont they told us we're now entering the holy area and that we would need to remove our sturdy hiking boots. Barefoot?  Yes, barefoot! It was also at this point the escort in this picture offered to carry my small bacack with my camera and water bottles. Arya said it would be too dangerous for ME to carry it. What???

The group, led by the head priest of Abuna Yemata, continued on... Or should I say UP. Straight up! The trail for the next 1,000 vertical feet was a series of intricate hand holds and foot holds. This was way out of our comfort zone, but the escorts did a great job keeping us safe, and alive. 

At the top we caught our breath and I got access to my camera again. This place was indescribable. Literally perched on a cliff face.  I'm sitting (and shaking) on a small landing outside the baptism room, carved out of solid rock, where new mothers bring their babies to be initiated into the Orthodox Church.  The young women carry their babies in slings on their backs. And it was too dangerous for me to carry my camera and water bottles? Wow. 

If you look closely you can see human remains in this niche. There were several of these at the top, carved out centuries ago as final resting places for the bodies of priests and deacons. As the years pass, the niches slowly fill. One day, many years from now, they will be completely sealed with stones. 

The view of the valley below from inside the baptism room. 

The baptism room is only 100 feet from the entrance to the church, but the hard part was yet to come. Gaining entrance to the church is by a narrow (about 3 feet wide, but it felt more like 6 inches to me) suspended 1,500 feet in the air. There was a series of small hand holds to put my shaking fingers into. 

Carrie went first and did much better than me, but finally we're at the entrance to the church!

Stay tuned for pictures of the interior. Absolutely stunning!


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